IN SEARCH OF LONO PT. 2
| `Noko Oi`, its the best.
I sweat profusely in this place. But already, I prefer Lahaina to Waikiki. Of course, tourism is the mothers milk of the islands, yet I believe this destination will provide the focus of this venture. The pace of life in Maui is subdued in comparison to the crowded and noisy streets of Honolulu. Here, we find the same trinket shops, but intermixed with impressive art galleries and a booming fishing industry.
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| The surfers and boarders are ever-engaged in their quest for a righteous
set. Again, we find equality in the sea.
Considering the verdant, tropical beauty that defines the Hawaiian Islands, Lahaina lies in stark contrast. Here, it is hot and dry --- With the warm blue waters that roll nearby, lulling the streetwalkers, vacationers and window shoppers searching for treasures and trinkets, there is a comfortable peace here. I am visiting my good friend JoAnna, who is now living and working in Maui, and her roommate, Anju; and they had graciously welcomed me into their home. After we had carefully inspected a few drinking establishments, we agreed it was time for a nice dinner. `The Fish Company` is located on Front Street; on the waterfront, with open air and the insistent current nearby, a ravaging appetite was building. Part of my Five Point Plan, was the hunt for the perfect Mai Tai, and our mood was elevated as the drinks were exceptional, especially after a few hits of some strong smoke. Everything was shaping up nicely. Feeling relaxed for the first time in three years, I am beginning to find the handle on this place.
I have yet to meet someone native to Maui. This is a land of transplants. There are the drop-outs, the seekers, the locals and the natives. The rest of us are howlies. Howlie used to mean foreign visitor, but its been whittled down to `white foreign visitor`. If youre not a native, you can become a local, still youll always be a howlie. With less than 10,000 full-blooded Hawaiians in existence, I can appreciate the distinction, as it appears to me the same circle of circumstance; the aftermath of the mighty American Dream. Since the arrival of Captain Cook, who was mistaken for the revered god Lono, the Hawaiian Islands have become a mecca for visitors and developers. `Ol Cook was eventually sliced into small pieces as a message for those who pretend to be God. All things run in patterns and the cycle of American progress bears no false pretense. It has always been about bigger and better, and in the here and now, the song remains the same. The necessity for convenience has spread even there, to the westernmost vestiges of the American Empire. The Wal-Marts, McDonalds and Hard Rock Cafes are the signature stamp of our culture. Commercialism for the sake of commercialism. Makes you proud in a dirty little way, eh? |
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| She works for `Skin Deep`, a premier Lahaina tattoo shop, and shes
been my only artist for the past many years.
This factors into my Five Point Plan, but well come back to that.
This place is so different from the plastic presentation of the so-called face of Hawaii, which is what you see in Waikiki. She came here and found a deeper realization. Secrets of self, which are only revealed when you have shed the baggage of the American Dream mentality. F. Scott Fitzgerald wrote that the world could be as big or as small as you wish it to be. Jim Morrison felt that the American Dream was unobtainable, and Hunter Thompson thought the American Dream was dead. Myself, I think the American Dream is simply a dream, because I only understand it while Im sleeping, and then I awaken with the taste of shit in my mouth. Then again, I was drinking heavily last night. Despite the booming tourist trade which keeps this tropical utopia spinning round, there is still a deeper meaning to it all, and I must be in the thick of it. Nine days isnt enough time to find the spirit of anything, but it is time enough to make a little noise. To beat the brush---And sometimes, with some noise and violence, shit falls out in the concussion---And for me, there we will ascertain the true heart of the matter. |
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| We worked our way along muddy paths, slipping, falling and laughing all the time. Grasping the strong bamboo to hold us up, we forded many hidden steams that would appear suddenly in the thick foliage. | |||
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| The cool swim below the fall only whet our appetites for the water, so we headed for the beach. We picked up some LongBoard Lager, packed it in ice and stretched out on the warm sands of `Baby Beach`. This is paradise. | |||
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| We snorkeled in the clear blue water, swimming among the coral formations,
spotting vibrantly colored fish and basking in the warm sea. I am filled
with a great peace and sense of relaxation that had been foreign to me for
what feels like a lifetime.
The warm sun browned our skin as we sipped the cold Hawaiian lager. Two dogs were playing in the surf, chasing one another, getting coated in sand before charging back into the water. Those dogs were carefree; I think every dog should have that life. After awhile, we packed up our gear and headed back into Lahaina, it was late afternoon and there were still plans in store for the night. |
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| JoAnna had prepared a custom leg band tattoo, to mark my first visit
to the islands. The shop, (Skin Deep), was hopping. Spike was singing along with the `Hair Band Hits of the 80`s`, while applying a shark tattoo onto the shoulder of an eager customer. `Tattoos are to art, what rock and roll is to music`, and they signify many things to me. Artful expression, personal beliefs and a deference to that which has influenced me most. |
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| Sure, I love the artwork of Ralph Steadman, Picasso and Van Gogh, but
Vincent cut off his own ear, do you think Id trust that crazy fuck
with an autoclave? Guess again, fella.
Tomorrow, we would be driving the famed `Road to Hana`, so once the inking had been completed, we did the logical thing---time for drinks!
Again, Peanuts the parrot served the obscene wake-up call, and we were forced to begin the day. I had purchased some unsalted macadamia nuts for the birds, using them as an incentive in teaching Peanuts and Perico to say `Lono!` Only time would tell if I would be successful. (in the end, I was not) Anju decided to join us for the day, and after breakfast, we headed for the `Road to Hana`, in the comfort of her air-conditioned car. |
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| Starting in Kahului, the `Road to Hana` is a stunning 52 mile voyage, with over 600 curves and more than 50 bridges, which offers the most spectacular landscapes in all of Maui. Oceanside vistas, hidden waterfalls and the lush Hawaiian jungle. | |||
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| The bridges are wide enough for only one car at a time, and you must quickly adjust to the right-of-way, something which the majority of the tourists, in their convertible Sebrings are oblivious to. It seems that on Maui, the only people in a rush are the tourists, racing around in a frantic dash to see everything. For the rest of us, there is no need to hasten; I have fallen into the calm of a low-gear mentality. | |||
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| Traveling on, we continued south on Highway 31, when the greenery slowly
began to fade, and we passed onto yet another face of Maui. The south end
of Maui is the most recently formed part of the island.
Here, you will find no trees, grass which grows like white feathers, a biting wind and an uninviting and treacherous coastline. There is no fresh water on this part of the island, so the few residents of this area are forced to carry in their own supply. When the pavement ended, we pressed onward, along the rocky road, which is carved into the lava formations which are the basis of the island. Twisting and turning, we passed through this otherworldly place. |
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Southern Maui![]() |
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| In time, we passed from the moon-like landscape and back into the lush
green lands, past the Tedeschi Winery and finally, back into Lahaina. The
drive was only 165 miles, but took 6 ½ hours to make the circuit
around the island. One of the finest days in memory and an experience that
I can highly recommend.
That night, we dined at 555 Front Street on seafood and a host of Mai Tai`s. Our table was overlooking an oceanside courtyard where a luau was underway. As we watched the drum-led dances and finally the fire dancers, we sipped the finest Mai Tai`s of the trip. There are few days in life which stand out as truly spectacular days. Those times which shine in memory like golden dreams. Against which, all future days will be forever measured; this had been a day of days.
On spur of the moment, we booked the helicopter trip. It was my last day on the island and it seemed like a cherry for the top of an already delicious pie. From the heli-port near the Kahului Airport, we arrived at Sunshine Helicopter Tours, ready for our flight over the nearby island of Molokai. |
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| The occasional sugarcane field and incredibly steep ravines, with countless
waterfalls which were several thousand feet in height. Absolutely breathtaking.
The mist from the falls created rainbows from every angle; it was like slow-dancing in the clouds, in the warm embrace of a dream. In time, we turned back over the water on our return path to Kahului. The flight lasted only an hour but had left an indelible impression. The Five Point Plan was now complete. I had set out on this vacation with a specific plan in mind. `If its not a plan, its a wish`. There was the search for the perfect Mai Tai, a new tattoo, to visit the graves of Charles Lindbergh and Henry Hansen, and my cousin Steves change of command ceremony. But there had been so much more. The scramble through the bamboo forest and swimming below the waterfall, the chance to visit with family, old friends and to make new friends, snorkeling and swimming with the fiercely colored fish, the flight over Molokai, unbelievable seafood and enough rum to require a triple shot of insulin. Anju drove to the airport like her ass was on fire, more rapidly than even the tourists. Once my bag was checked, we said our goodbyes and I passed into the security wing. I stepped onto the plane as they were closing the door, which earned me a narrowed eye from the attendant, whom I ignored. I settled into my seat in front of the emergency exit, the only seat on the plane which allows for leg room, and primed for the overnight flight back to Los Angeles, and ultimately, to Colorado. I pulled a bottle of dark Hana Bay rum from my bag, mixed a stiff drink and reflected over the past nine days. The energy of the Hawaiian Islands is unique. It is nourishing to the soul to be in a place of such peace and calm. The Hawaiians call it `Mana`, the `Big Energy`. It brings a great tranquility to mind and body, which I was reluctant to leave behind. The Search for Lono has yielded a tremendous reward. And now, looking at the morning sun over the Rocky Mountains, I know that the `Mana` is within me, and there is shall remain Mahalo, ---Ken Long |
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REACTIONSAscending | Descending
RANTING AGAIN
Our deceitful quisling of a leader has struck again.Just when I thought it couldn't get any worse, the sinful savages have...more


























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