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IN SEARCH OF LONO PT. 2

`Noko Oi`, it’s the best.

I sweat profusely in this place. But already, I prefer Lahaina to Waikiki.

Of course, tourism is the mother’s milk of the islands, yet I believe this destination will provide the focus of this venture.

The pace of life in Maui is subdued in comparison to the crowded and noisy streets of Honolulu. Here, we find the same trinket shops, but intermixed with impressive art galleries and a booming fishing industry.

The waterfront is lined with yachts of all sizes; the docks of the harbor are filled to capacity with fine boats and captains in search of fishing enthusiasts, or those with money to burn.
The surfers and boarders are ever-engaged in their quest for a righteous set. Again, we find equality in the sea.

Considering the verdant, tropical beauty that defines the Hawaiian Islands, Lahaina lies in stark contrast. Here, it is hot and dry --- With the warm blue waters that roll nearby, lulling the streetwalkers, vacationers and window shoppers searching for treasures and trinkets, there is a comfortable peace here.

I am visiting my good friend JoAnna, who is now living and working in Maui, and her roommate, Anju; and they had graciously welcomed me into their home.

After we had carefully inspected a few drinking establishments, we agreed it was time for a nice dinner. `The Fish Company` is located on Front Street; on the waterfront, with open air and the insistent current nearby, a ravaging appetite was building.

Part of my Five Point Plan, was the hunt for the perfect Mai Tai, and our mood was elevated as the drinks were exceptional, especially after a few hits of some strong smoke. Everything was shaping up nicely. Feeling relaxed for the first time in three years, I am beginning to find the handle on this place.

I have yet to meet someone native to Maui.

This is a land of transplants. There are the drop-outs, the seekers, the locals and the natives. The rest of us are howlies. Howlie used to mean foreign visitor, but it’s been whittled down to `white foreign visitor`. If you’re not a native, you can become a local, still you’ll always be a howlie.

With less than 10,000 full-blooded Hawaiians in existence, I can appreciate the distinction, as it appears to me the same circle of circumstance; the aftermath of the mighty American Dream.

Since the arrival of Captain Cook, who was mistaken for the revered god Lono, the Hawaiian Islands have become a mecca for visitors and developers.

`Ol Cook was eventually sliced into small pieces as a message for those who pretend to be God. All things run in patterns and the cycle of American progress bears no false pretense. It has always been about bigger and better, and in the here and now, the song remains the same. The necessity for convenience has spread even there, to the westernmost vestiges of the American Empire. The Wal-Marts, McDonald’s and Hard Rock Cafes are the signature stamp of our culture. Commercialism for the sake of commercialism.

Makes you proud in a dirty little way, eh?

Sure, you can amble down Front Street and purchase a framed, hand-signed Picasso, a signed Lennon print or a Jimi Hendrix guitar, and then walk three doors down for your authentic, postage-ready coconut (which doubles as a coin bank), and a pack of Marlboros. All the bases must be covered, we’re trying to hit for the cycle right? Which brings me back to JoAnna---
She works for `Skin Deep`, a premier Lahaina tattoo shop, and she’s been my only artist for the past many years.

This factors into my Five Point Plan, but we’ll come back to that.

This place is so different from the plastic presentation of the so-called face of Hawaii, which is what you see in Waikiki.

She came here and found a deeper realization.

Secrets of self, which are only revealed when you have shed the baggage of the American Dream mentality.

F. Scott Fitzgerald wrote that the world could be as big or as small as you wish it to be.

Jim Morrison felt that the American Dream was unobtainable, and Hunter Thompson thought the American Dream was dead.

Myself, I think the American Dream is simply a dream, because I only understand it while I’m sleeping, and then I awaken with the taste of shit in my mouth.

Then again, I was drinking heavily last night.

Despite the booming tourist trade which keeps this tropical utopia spinning round, there is still a deeper meaning to it all, and I must be in the thick of it.

Nine days isn’t enough time to find the spirit of anything, but it is time enough to make a little noise. To beat the brush---And sometimes, with some noise and violence, shit falls out in the concussion---And for me, there we will ascertain the true heart of the matter.

I was jerked awake when `Peanuts` the parrot started shrieking. He is certainly prone to sporadic outbursts, when feeling underappreciated. Although blessed with a good vocabulary and a fine speaking voice, his shrill freak-out pierced my slumber, reminding me that I was far from home. And so begin the activities of the day.

It appears that most anything grows here. The patio is filled with a crazed variety of plants and flowers, cactus, lime and pineapple trees. It only rains about ten times a year in Lahaina, so I’ve been sleeping in the open air of the patio, and this quiet fishing village is slowly coming awake.

Only a short drive, we headed first to Pa`ia, for breakfast. At the Café Des Amis, we enjoyed crepes and coffee, a fine start for any day. From Pa`ia, we headed east on the stunning

`Road to Hana`.

It was time to hike the bamboo forest.

The forest is massive, towering bamboo, more than 12 inches in diameter and 50 feet tall. Once inside, stick to the paths or perspective is quickly lost. We moved off the path anyway, to smoke a little high-octane weed, fuck perspective!

This is a vacation, right?!

We worked our way along muddy paths, slipping, falling and laughing all the time. Grasping the strong bamboo to hold us up, we forded many hidden steams that would appear suddenly in the thick foliage.
There are no snakes in Hawaii, which was comforting to me.

The wind would move the bamboo in a symphony of drums, accompanied only by the exotic voices of unseen birds.

The muddy trek leads to a series of five waterfalls, each more isolated than the last. We followed the snaking path through the dense jungle, crossing scores of steams and mud bogs before we heard the roar of `Big Water`.

We stepped from the forest into a great clearing to find a towering waterfall. From 200 feet above, the water explodes through the trees and undergrowth, cascading in a mist and crashing foam.

At the base, a deep pool had formed, and we eagerly swam in, resting below the fall.

It was an exhilarating feeling to be part of this incredible scene.

Hidden away, this cool island river in the midst of an immense bamboo forest, the likes of which I have never seen.

At long last, I’ve begun to sense the pulse of this place. Finally free of the tenuous grip of the tourist swarm, Maui has offered me the first true glimpse of her face.

The cool swim below the fall only whet our appetites for the water, so we headed for the beach. We picked up some LongBoard Lager, packed it in ice and stretched out on the warm sands of `Baby Beach`. This is paradise.
Baby Beach, near Lahaina.

 

We snorkeled in the clear blue water, swimming among the coral formations, spotting vibrantly colored fish and basking in the warm sea. I am filled with a great peace and sense of relaxation that had been foreign to me for what feels like a lifetime.

The warm sun browned our skin as we sipped the cold Hawaiian lager. Two dogs were playing in the surf, chasing one another, getting coated in sand before charging back into the water. Those dogs were carefree; I think every dog should have that life.

After awhile, we packed up our gear and headed back into Lahaina, it was late afternoon and there were still plans in store for the night.

After a shower to wash off the mud and salt, we walked over to `Coolers` for a round of drinks. The Mai Tai`s were quite exceptional, but still ranked third behind `The Fish Company` and the `Outrigger Hotel` bar, in Waikiki.

 

Then, we strolled along Front Street, past the largest Banyan tree in the world. I counted 42 points where it connects to the ground. At night, there is a series of lights within and below, which illuminate it in a picturesque beauty.
JoAnna had prepared a custom leg band tattoo, to mark my first visit to the islands.
The shop, (Skin Deep), was hopping. Spike was singing along with the `Hair Band Hits of the 80`s`, while applying a shark tattoo onto the shoulder of an eager customer.
`Tattoos are to art, what rock and roll is to music`, and they signify many things to me.
Artful expression, personal beliefs and a deference to that which has influenced me most.
It took a couple hours to complete and because of the cocktails, I bled a little more than usual.

They say that you shouldn’t drink before tattooing, because it thins your blood and can become a bit messy. But I am, of course, a professional, and was up to the task at hand.

The endorphins were raging and the adrenaline was running high, the perpetual buzz of the tattoo needle---Inking parlors are a fun place to hang.

JoAnna has been my favorite artist for many years. Blessed with great talent and a sharp focus, I can genuinely suggest that if you’re in Lahaina and want a tattoo---

Sure, I love the artwork of Ralph Steadman, Picasso and Van Gogh, but Vincent cut off his own ear, do you think I’d trust that crazy fuck with an autoclave? Guess again, fella.

Tomorrow, we would be driving the famed `Road to Hana`, so once the inking had been completed, we did the logical thing---time for drinks!

Again, Peanuts the parrot served the obscene wake-up call, and we were forced to begin the day. I had purchased some unsalted macadamia nuts for the birds, using them as an incentive in teaching Peanuts and Perico to say `Lono!` Only time would tell if I would be successful. (in the end, I was not)

Anju decided to join us for the day, and after breakfast, we headed for the `Road to Hana`, in the comfort of her air-conditioned car.

Starting in Kahului, the `Road to Hana` is a stunning 52 mile voyage, with over 600 curves and more than 50 bridges, which offers the most spectacular landscapes in all of Maui. Oceanside vistas, hidden waterfalls and the lush Hawaiian jungle.
The bridges are wide enough for only one car at a time, and you must quickly adjust to the right-of-way, something which the majority of the tourists, in their convertible Sebring’s are oblivious to. It seems that on Maui, the only people in a rush are the tourists, racing around in a frantic dash to see everything. For the rest of us, there is no need to hasten; I have fallen into the calm of a low-gear mentality.

Once we had passed Hana, we were on the lookout for a deep ravine followed by a sugarcane mill on the right. We had arrived in Kipahulu, and turned left onto a dirt road which led to a small church, where we discovered the final resting place of famed aviator, Charles Lindbergh.

Traveling on, we continued south on Highway 31, when the greenery slowly began to fade, and we passed onto yet another face of Maui. The south end of Maui is the most recently formed part of the island.

Here, you will find no trees, grass which grows like white feathers, a biting wind and an uninviting and treacherous coastline. There is no fresh water on this part of the island, so the few residents of this area are forced to carry in their own supply.

When the pavement ended, we pressed onward, along the rocky road, which is carved into the lava formations which are the basis of the island. Twisting and turning, we passed through this otherworldly place.

Southern Maui

In time, we passed from the moon-like landscape and back into the lush green lands, past the Tedeschi Winery and finally, back into Lahaina. The drive was only 165 miles, but took 6 ½ hours to make the circuit around the island. One of the finest days in memory and an experience that I can highly recommend.

That night, we dined at 555 Front Street on seafood and a host of Mai Tai`s. Our table was overlooking an oceanside courtyard where a luau was underway. As we watched the drum-led dances and finally the fire dancers, we sipped the finest Mai Tai`s of the trip.

There are few days in life which stand out as truly spectacular days. Those times which shine in memory like golden dreams. Against which, all future days will be forever measured; this had been a day of days.

On spur of the moment, we booked the helicopter trip. It was my last day on the island and it seemed like a cherry for the top of an already delicious pie.

From the heli-port near the Kahului Airport, we arrived at Sunshine Helicopter Tours, ready for our flight over the nearby island of Molokai.

Our pilot was Al, the first full-blooded Hawaiian that I had met. His engaging manner made for an educational and highly entertaining experience.

Molokai is a scarcely populated island and is without a single stop light.

A rugged coastline which stretches from the waterline, to the peaks of steep, high green mountains, the tops of which are always shrouded by clouds.

The occasional sugarcane field and incredibly steep ravines, with countless waterfalls which were several thousand feet in height. Absolutely breathtaking.

The mist from the falls created rainbows from every angle; it was like slow-dancing in the clouds, in the warm embrace of a dream.

In time, we turned back over the water on our return path to Kahului. The flight lasted only an hour but had left an indelible impression. The Five Point Plan was now complete.

I had set out on this vacation with a specific plan in mind. `If it’s not a plan, it’s a wish`.

There was the search for the perfect Mai Tai, a new tattoo, to visit the graves of Charles Lindbergh and Henry Hansen, and my cousin Steve’s change of command ceremony.

But there had been so much more.

The scramble through the bamboo forest and swimming below the waterfall, the chance to visit with family, old friends and to make new friends, snorkeling and swimming with the fiercely colored fish, the flight over Molokai, unbelievable seafood and enough rum to require a triple shot of insulin.

Anju drove to the airport like her ass was on fire, more rapidly than even the tourists. Once my bag was checked, we said our goodbyes and I passed into the security wing.

I stepped onto the plane as they were closing the door, which earned me a narrowed eye from the attendant, whom I ignored. I settled into my seat in front of the emergency exit, the only seat on the plane which allows for leg room, and primed for the overnight flight back to Los Angeles, and ultimately, to Colorado. I pulled a bottle of dark Hana Bay rum from my bag, mixed a stiff drink and reflected over the past nine days.

The energy of the Hawaiian Islands is unique. It is nourishing to the soul to be in a place of such peace and calm. The Hawaiians call it `Mana`, the `Big Energy`. It brings a great tranquility to mind and body, which I was reluctant to leave behind.

The Search for Lono has yielded a tremendous reward. And now, looking at the morning sun over the Rocky Mountains, I know that the `Mana` is within me, and there is shall remain…

Mahalo,

---Ken Long

 

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Shooter
Friday, 16 September 2005
If you see Paul Theroux walking around punch him in the mouth for me. Thanks.
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