Nice hat. Pale summer suit. Elegant gentleman of a certain age. Stunned, disoriented.
"I guess the restaurants and cafes are all closed?"
"Yes, and we will only be open until our boss says we can go. Then we are out of here, too."
Emphatic answer from the harried young woman checking out the long lines at a Hudson's in Louis Armstrong New Orleans International Airport late afternoon on Saturday August 30, 2009. Mandatory evacuation due to Hurricane Gustav began at 8 AM the next morning.
"My flight is not until tomorrow morning." the man said.
He stood still, apparently slow to realize that he would have nothing more than newsstand snacks to eat all night, and that he had better hurry up and purchase those before the shop shut down. A woman hugged close a newly purchased travel blanket.
"My flight is not until 6 AM, and it is pretty cold in there."
At that time, 6 AM was the time of the last flight scheduled out. More were later added.
We were lucky. In a way. Our flight had been booked for weeks-for 5:45 PM that night. Like these people, we got to the airport early, fearful that traffic exiting the city would slow down the ride to the airport for hours. Did not want to miss that flight. Could end up sleeping in a gymnasium in Memphis or God knows where.
We would not have been in that city except for those flights.
We arrived in New Orleans the previous Wednesday. We had spent some family time on the Texas Gulf coast and thought we would polish it off with few days in New Orleans.
Drove along the Gulf Coast. Found sensational barbecue and other foods at Willy Ray's in Beaumont. Which city, as I write this, is evacuated and getting perhaps worse storm effects than New Orleans. Would not have predicted that when I was tucking into my deer sausage and carrot souffle.
Worried, all this trip, about Gustav. Were we driving right into a mess? What about our non-refundable flights? Most important, what about my 88-year-old Dad, who lives alone with no nearby kinfolks? If Gustav veered west, it would head for his coastal town.
Got to our hotel, the St. James in New Orleans and the young fellow who (needlessly) helped us up with our bags was talking about Gustav.
"They say it is going to totally miss Texas.
Gustav and Gastronomy
"
I was jubilant, but tried not to show it. It apparently could still hit New Orleans.
"I am getting out," says the kid. "New Orleans can't take it again."
He's leaving already?
The news still seemed uncertain. We went out and grabbed some local beer and jambalaya.
Next morning the news was more serious, but still no evacuation. Gustav could go any which way.
My husband went downstairs to figure how to get the wireless Internet working. There was a surcharge for it but no signal.
"You're not staying here tonight, are you?" asked the young woman at the desk. "I'm leaving."
These people were understandably freaked out. I wanted to ask them what they had been through with Katrina but hesitated. It's like asking what somebody did in a war.
The news was scary enough that my husband booked a B&B inland and a rental car. So much for three nights in New Orleans. Better safe than sorry.
First we had breakfast at The Coffee Pot, a great French Quarter brunch place. Coming out of the ladies' I encountered a guy who seemed a little tipsy and a little affected.
"This building is amazing," he said, looking all around. "It's like something out of the antebellum south."
It IS something out of the antebellum south, you idiot, I thought, but I had did not say it. I just envied his ability to enjoy a Bloody Mary while a hurricane headed for him.
No Mary for breakfast for me, not with a four hour drive ahead.
The guy was at a large table of jolly types. I later leaned there was a large gay convention that weekend-Southern Decadence. That is the one that wacko Pastor John Hagee said caused Katrina.
"Hurricane Katrina was, in fact, the judgment of God against the city of New Orleans," Hagee said.
"New Orleans had a level of sin that was offensive to God," Hagee said, because "there was to be a homosexual parade there on the Monday that the Katrina came."
And here we are again, another gay parade, another hurricane. I wondered what had happened in the last couple of years. I think they had their "Decadence" without interference. John McCain, by the way, only rejected Hagee's endorsement when he found out Hagee also said the Holocaust was God's will.
We polished off our yummy Eggs Sardou and quickly went through The Cabildo Museum.
Among other things, we saw a death mask of Napoleon and learned that traditionally, those that could afford it left the city in the summer because disease was so rampant that thousands died every year.
The guy who drove us to the rental car place said he had a car booked for himself Sunday. He said he did not worry about Gustav.
"It's Labor Day, you just put down a barbecue grill anywhere you are. I don't need no motel, anything like that."
Last thing before we got our car, the woman checking us out says, "You have to return it in Louisiana."
"We HOPE that is no problem," we said.
She laughed nervously. We were headed to Mississippi. If they closed the airport in New Orleans, we did not intend to come back.
We took a stroll through the Garden District. Renovations being done by people who appeared to be Mexican. What if they are undocumented? What happens to them in a hurricane? They will never trust the government buses. And what will they do in a new city with no rights and no work?
That night we drove to a beautiful old town I hope to return to, Natchez, Mississippi.
I was jubilant, but tried not to show it. It apparently could still hit New Orleans.
"I am getting out," says the kid. "New Orleans can't take it again."
He's leaving already?
The news still seemed uncertain. We went out and grabbed some local beer and jambalaya.
Next morning the news was more serious, but still no evacuation. Gustav could go any which way.
My husband went downstairs to figure how to get the wireless Internet working. There was a surcharge for it but no signal.
"You're not staying here tonight, are you?" asked the young woman at the desk. "I'm leaving."
These people were understandably freaked out. I wanted to ask them what they had been through with Katrina but hesitated. It's like asking what somebody did in a war.
The news was scary enough that my husband booked a B&B inland and a rental car. So much for three nights in New Orleans. Better safe than sorry.
First we had breakfast at The Coffee Pot, a great French Quarter brunch place. Coming out of the ladies' I encountered a guy who seemed a little tipsy and a little affected.
"This building is amazing," he said, looking all around. "It's like something out of the antebellum south."
It IS something out of the antebellum south, you idiot, I thought, but I had did not say it. I just envied his ability to enjoy a Bloody Mary while a hurricane headed for him.
No Mary for breakfast for me, not with a four hour drive ahead.
The guy was at a large table of jolly types. I later leaned there was a large gay convention that weekend-Southern Decadence. That is the one that wacko Pastor John Hagee said caused Katrina.
"Hurricane Katrina was, in fact, the judgment of God against the city of New Orleans," Hagee said.
"New Orleans had a level of sin that was offensive to God," Hagee said, because "there was to be a homosexual parade there on the Monday that the Katrina came."
And here we are again, another gay parade, another hurricane. I wondered what had happened in the last couple of years. I think they had their "Decadence" without interference. John McCain, by the way, only rejected Hagee's endorsement when he found out Hagee also said the Holocaust was God's will.
We polished off our yummy Eggs Sardou and quickly went through The Cabildo Museum.
Among other things, we saw a death mask of Napoleon and learned that traditionally, those that could afford it left the city in the summer because disease was so rampant that thousands died every year.
The guy who drove us to the rental car place said he had a car booked for himself Sunday. He said he did not worry about Gustav.
"It's Labor Day, you just put down a barbecue grill anywhere you are. I don't need no motel, anything like that."
Last thing before we got our car, the woman checking us out says, "You have to return it in Louisiana."
"We HOPE that is no problem," we said.
She laughed nervously. We were headed to Mississippi. If they closed the airport in New Orleans, we did not intend to come back.
We took a stroll through the Garden District. Renovations being done by people who appeared to be Mexican. What if they are undocumented? What happens to them in a hurricane? They will never trust the government buses. And what will they do in a new city with no rights and no work?
That night we drove to a beautiful old town I hope to return to, Natchez, Mississippi.
Stayed in a precious B&B, Aunt Clara's Cottage. 1870's. There are lots of fine places to eat, evidently, but we checked out the Pig Out Inn for more tasty authentic barbecue.
In our glamorous room we stayed glued to the weather news and the Democratic convention. Which we could do anywhere.
Next day, great breakfast. And then we hit the road. Jet Blue was not refunding flights until Sunday. Besides, they did not fly out of any airports we could easily drive to. Houston would take us back down to the coast where Gustav could hit any minute.. And we had to return the car in Louisiana.
Took the back roads this time. An old-style ferry between the towns of New Roads and St. Francisville. Bullet holes in the sign. Bridge to be built soon, so it will look like anywhere.
Lucky in food again-Not Your Mama's Café in Morganza. We fortified on homestyle fried chicken.
The hotel in New Orleans was boarded up when we got there. A new kid, white college student who had never worked there before, was behind the desk. Saying goodbye and good luck to the guy who had carried our bags before. That guy was nonstop on a cell phone.
We had a great night out: Sazeracs at The Hotel Monteleone, oysters at the Acme Oyster House, local beer at Jean Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop. Usual stuff. We had no time for new adventures.
You would never have believed a hurricane was nearing. Everybody was drinking and partying as usual. The crowd at the Carousel Bar at the Monteleone was talking about an LSU football game. The Decadence crowd was in the streets.
And, hey, if Hagee thinks antics like the Decadence crowd I saw on the street in front of the Clover Grill in Bourbon Street call down God's wrath, well, he has not seen a typical Saturday night on Christopher Street in NYC.
Got back to our room to find a very official note from management.
"The City of New Orleans and the Mayor's Office will be issuing a mandatory evacuation order for ALL HOTEL GUESTS tomorrow morning at 8AM."
Geez. And most tourists likely to come in later and far drunker than us. And without a plan or a plane ticket.
We called down to the desk, explained we had a car and a flight booked, and the guy said we could stay until noon, no problem.
In our glamorous room we stayed glued to the weather news and the Democratic convention. Which we could do anywhere.
Next day, great breakfast. And then we hit the road. Jet Blue was not refunding flights until Sunday. Besides, they did not fly out of any airports we could easily drive to. Houston would take us back down to the coast where Gustav could hit any minute.. And we had to return the car in Louisiana.
Took the back roads this time. An old-style ferry between the towns of New Roads and St. Francisville. Bullet holes in the sign. Bridge to be built soon, so it will look like anywhere.
Lucky in food again-Not Your Mama's Café in Morganza. We fortified on homestyle fried chicken.
The hotel in New Orleans was boarded up when we got there. A new kid, white college student who had never worked there before, was behind the desk. Saying goodbye and good luck to the guy who had carried our bags before. That guy was nonstop on a cell phone.
We had a great night out: Sazeracs at The Hotel Monteleone, oysters at the Acme Oyster House, local beer at Jean Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop. Usual stuff. We had no time for new adventures.
You would never have believed a hurricane was nearing. Everybody was drinking and partying as usual. The crowd at the Carousel Bar at the Monteleone was talking about an LSU football game. The Decadence crowd was in the streets.
And, hey, if Hagee thinks antics like the Decadence crowd I saw on the street in front of the Clover Grill in Bourbon Street call down God's wrath, well, he has not seen a typical Saturday night on Christopher Street in NYC.
Got back to our room to find a very official note from management.
"The City of New Orleans and the Mayor's Office will be issuing a mandatory evacuation order for ALL HOTEL GUESTS tomorrow morning at 8AM."
Geez. And most tourists likely to come in later and far drunker than us. And without a plan or a plane ticket.
We called down to the desk, explained we had a car and a flight booked, and the guy said we could stay until noon, no problem.
We were woken up by a knock on the door. It was ten. I had not expected to sleep so late.
The TV news said that no one would be allowed into the airport without a ticket. We had virtual online tickets. Husband went down to ask to use the hotel's printer.
He came back and said that there was a very confused German couple asking if they could have the phone numbers of some airlines.
Just as I was out the door of the room, a call. An officious woman-yet another new, white employee, said, "We need you to leave the hotel now."
We asked directions to a breakfast place. I figured there might be no personnel at the airport. We found the recommended place, the lady out front said, "We closed."
Uh-oh. But as we walked back to our car, she said, "Come back, honey."
Apparently her boss was taking a few more customers. But she kept saying she wanted to leave.
I do not blame her. The menu had a history of the restaurant-Mother's, another great southern place I have to go back to-and the staff had to live in FEMA trailers in a parking lot next to the restaurant for nine months after Katrina. We had, after some time, a fine breakfast and a baked ham po'boy for the plane ride. (I overheard some naïve person at the foodless airport later say, "They usually feed you on the plane, don't they?")
The staff looked very worried. I felt bad that they were serving us when they had to get their homes and families in order and maybe get on a government bus. But I wanted food.
Other diners were drinking beer and talking football.
The manager locked the door after us when we left.
Everything was boarded up. The streets near-deserted. National Guard trucks. Our camera battery had run down.
Sorry, guys, no pictures of the chicks with AK-47's.
Traffic was not bad, only bumper to bumper during the latter half of the trip. We wanted to make absolutely positively certain that the plane would take off before we returned the car. What if we returned the car, the flight was cancelled, and we could not get another car? The parking lot was full. If you wanted to park, you had to be diverted to the employee parking lot from which there was no shuttle. Husband went on to the car rental office.
I got out and walked ahead to the airport.
The TV news said that no one would be allowed into the airport without a ticket. We had virtual online tickets. Husband went down to ask to use the hotel's printer.
He came back and said that there was a very confused German couple asking if they could have the phone numbers of some airlines.
Just as I was out the door of the room, a call. An officious woman-yet another new, white employee, said, "We need you to leave the hotel now."
We asked directions to a breakfast place. I figured there might be no personnel at the airport. We found the recommended place, the lady out front said, "We closed."
Uh-oh. But as we walked back to our car, she said, "Come back, honey."
Apparently her boss was taking a few more customers. But she kept saying she wanted to leave.
I do not blame her. The menu had a history of the restaurant-Mother's, another great southern place I have to go back to-and the staff had to live in FEMA trailers in a parking lot next to the restaurant for nine months after Katrina. We had, after some time, a fine breakfast and a baked ham po'boy for the plane ride. (I overheard some naïve person at the foodless airport later say, "They usually feed you on the plane, don't they?")
The staff looked very worried. I felt bad that they were serving us when they had to get their homes and families in order and maybe get on a government bus. But I wanted food.
Other diners were drinking beer and talking football.
The manager locked the door after us when we left.
Everything was boarded up. The streets near-deserted. National Guard trucks. Our camera battery had run down.
Sorry, guys, no pictures of the chicks with AK-47's.
Traffic was not bad, only bumper to bumper during the latter half of the trip. We wanted to make absolutely positively certain that the plane would take off before we returned the car. What if we returned the car, the flight was cancelled, and we could not get another car? The parking lot was full. If you wanted to park, you had to be diverted to the employee parking lot from which there was no shuttle. Husband went on to the car rental office.
I got out and walked ahead to the airport.
People were arriving with a mandatory evacuation hours away! Must be press or FEMA. There was no line at check-in. Not many people at the airport at all. Eerie. The airline guy looked at me like I was crazy for making sure the flight was leaving before we returned the car.
The staff also said that no, I could not take a water bottle past security and no, they were not sure if I could buy more on the other side.
Everybody was sitting at the tables of the closed cafes. Short-tempered. But we were the lucky few. Elsewhere people were being packed into buses by the thousands, shipped off to shelters.
Other than the newsstands, the only place open, inexplicably, was a Tabasco-themed gift shop.
Our flight was two hours late, but we picked up Wi-Fi near the gate which we did not get elsewhere in the airport. So the time passed with me following every development. It seemed so unreal that here we were in the middle of the biggest national story and yet we were so removed. It was like waiting for any flight at any gate.
Wheels up, finally, and we looked out and saw the beautiful unbroken line of lights caused by the bumper to bumper exodus along Interstate 10.
The staff also said that no, I could not take a water bottle past security and no, they were not sure if I could buy more on the other side.
Everybody was sitting at the tables of the closed cafes. Short-tempered. But we were the lucky few. Elsewhere people were being packed into buses by the thousands, shipped off to shelters.
Other than the newsstands, the only place open, inexplicably, was a Tabasco-themed gift shop.
Our flight was two hours late, but we picked up Wi-Fi near the gate which we did not get elsewhere in the airport. So the time passed with me following every development. It seemed so unreal that here we were in the middle of the biggest national story and yet we were so removed. It was like waiting for any flight at any gate.
Wheels up, finally, and we looked out and saw the beautiful unbroken line of lights caused by the bumper to bumper exodus along Interstate 10.
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